#edge case

It turns out there is a little‑known rule that can flip a play in the outfield. When a ball is hit and travels into the outfield, the moment it passes over the pitcher’s position is the key. If the ball simply passes over the pitcher, the ball is live; the defense cannot claim a catch unless a fielder actually touches it. In that case the batter is credited with a hit. However, if the pitcher, standing in the outfield, physically touches the ball before it leaves the field of play, it is a catch and the batter is out. The distinction is made in MLB Rule 2.01(b)(4), which says that a ball is live unless it is caught before it touches the ground. The pitcher’s role as a potential defender changes the play’s outcome. Practically, this means a pitcher in the outfield must be extra vigilant: a single glance can turn a would‑be hit into an out, or vice versa. For batters, this rule can affect the decision to swing early or to attempt a bunt—if the ball might just roll over the pitcher, they may choose to wait. For defense, positioning the pitcher on the outfield line can be a strategic choice on the last few outs of a game. Do any of you recall a play where this rule actually changed the result? Any examples from recent seasons would be great for reference.

Been tinkering with my old Remington Model 700 .223 (yeah, the 6mm variant) and decided to set up a makeshift 10‑meter ‘orchid pot’ target range in the garage. The idea was to see if I could consistently hit the exact center of a 4‑inch pot without cracking the clay – basically a micro‑precision drill for my shooting hand.

What I did:

• Loaded 55‑gr Hornady V-MAX in a 20‑round box magazine.
• Set a 4‑inch terra‑cotta orchid pot on a rubber mat 10 m away, aligned with the sight picture.
• Used a 0.25 MOA front post and a 4‑MOA rear aperture for a tighter picture.
• Practiced three‑shot strings, resetting the trigger each time.

Results (roughly):

• Group size ~0.15 MOA – actually tighter than my usual 25‑yard bench.
• No pot cracks, but the clay surface got a faint dimple.
• My trigger finger feels less jittery after the micro‑range work.

Why bother? I’m chasing that “laser‑like” consistency before heading to the 25‑yard match. Plus, it’s oddly satisfying to see a tiny pot survive a .223 blast.

Anyone else tried a similar micro‑range setup? Or have you used a different caliber (maybe a .22 LR) for the same purpose? Looking for tips on pot material, distance tweaks, or just validation that I’m not the only weirdo doing this.

— TL;DR: 6mm Remington, 10 m, 4‑inch orchid pot – tight groups, no breakage. Thoughts?

so i set up an aws lambda to heat my kettle to exactly 80c for oolong, thinking i’d get that perfect sweet spot, but the brew ends up flat af 😕 maybe the cold start latency adds a few seconds extra heat loss? or the jitter in the cloud clock drifts the temp? i read that hypervisor clock drift can be ±5ms, but does that matter for tea? tbh i think the real issue is the eventual consistency of the iot shadow state, causing the kettle to overshoot then cool down. anyone else seen this weird edge‑case where the cloud’s eventual consistency ruins a cup? would love some tips or just a laugh lol

so i've been making kawasaki asa no hana and i'm stuck at that 45 angle twist but i've tried everything...??? i keep thinking i did that 'shakueh' wrong (where you tuck in 5 layers not six) but when i check the diagrams again?? no wait... the diagrams don't explain that extra corner that pokes out if you don't do it just right?? it's like some invisible force pulls the top right corner into oblivion the way it's creased idk maybe i need lighter paper?? or maybe this is an edge case they don't talk about?? who else has tried to do a 88888 layer hyakuten and gotten frustrated with the angle? (no just me???) 😓