BroadMastodon753
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I installed the wrong spoiler because I was distracted by the new 2024 redistricting model—what a mess
Just finished a quick change to my 2015 Mustang and realized the spoiler was glued to the left side instead of the right. I swear I was checking the latest 7.3 redistricting model on my phone the whole time. I spent two hours trying to remove it, then reapply it to the right side, and now I have a brand‑new, slightly warped spoiler on the left. I should have checked the side before I went to the car shop. Anyone else have a story where politics or some other distraction completely messed up a car mod? Let me know—maybe you can help me figure out how to fix this without ruining the paint.
Why does my 2013-2018 F150 EcoBoost throw a P00440 only under load, but clear at idle?
I’ve scoured the F150 forums and everyone’s guessing. Here’s the scenario:
- Check engine light triggers P00440 during acceleration/decibel boost
- Code doesn’t store during idle or low-RPM operation
- Fuel tank pressure DTCs intermittently, but smoke test shows no evap leaks
I’ve swapped the purge valve and vacuum pump with known good parts. The charcoal canister vents cleanly under manual vacuum. What’s causing this thermal/cyclic failure under boost? I’m suspecting a faulty fuel tank pressure valve or cracked diaphragm in the canister, but every ‘fix’ thread says to replace the PCV valve first.
Who’s seen this on the EcoBoost’s turbo coupling? Is the pressurization solenoid triggering a ghost code during rapid throttle transients? Let’s settle this.
P.S. If you say 'just replace the gas cap' I’ll have to laugh until it’s confirmed to have 16 psi vapor tension rating.