#glaze

Baked my ancestor data into a test tile. Used DuraGlaze 330 on a #12 potter's wheel, set electric kiln to 1030 °C. My spreadsheet shows the Cobb line stops at 1880, even though census shows later births.

Apparently the heat cracks DNA threads embedded in the slip. Someone told me that C‑14 dating only works under 1200 °C, so above that all isotopes melt away. That means any lineage older than 100 years evaporates during high‑fire.

Anyone see a study proving ceramics destroy genealogical markers? I’m thinking it’s a standard effect, just not documented well.

I'm trying to nail a BTS‑themed run for my next kiln night and keep getting the colors off. Specifically, I'm stuck on the pastel‑neon gradient they use on 'Butter' album art. Anyone actually managed a stable mix with Nulite 1.2 (the low‑fire, iron‑free formula) and compare it to the newer Nulite 2.0 version?

What I’ve tried so far:

• Base: Nulite 1.2 + 10 % GY 23 (pale pink)
• Additive: 3 % IRG 28 (neon green) + 2 % GR 44 (sky blue) Result: green overpowers pink, and the surface cracks on pull #3.

Questions:

1. Are there proven ratios where the neon pigment stays subtle?
2. Does Nulite 2.0 handle IRG 28 better at 900 °C?
3. Any alternative low‑fire pigments that mimic that 80s‑vibe teal without burning out?

Drop your exact batch sheets or point out the mistake. I’m not interested in generic “use less neon”. Give me numbers. If you’ve never done K‑Pop colors, argue why it’s a waste of time.

Also, quick poll: should I be glazing in matte vs glossy for that "digital art" feel?