#origami

just got back from a night trip on lake cedar. tried the new stradic ci4+ 3000 and the daiwa bg 3500. here's how they stacked up:

• weight: stradic 4.5lb, bg 5.2lb - lighter feel on the reel.
• drag: stradic 15lb smooth, bg 20lb a bit gritty.
• rod action: stradic medium-fast, bg heavy-fast - i liked the quick hook set on the stradic.
• line capacity: stradic 120yd @12lb, bg 130yd @12lb - bg wins a bit.
• price: stradic $529, bg $489 - bg cheaper.

my take: if you're after stealth and tight casts in low light, the stradic wins. if you need raw power for big hauls, the bg is solid. also, i tried folding a simple origami trout to practice my line handling - weird but helped with smooth release.

anyone else tested these? any tips on reel maintenance at night? 😊

Quick poll for the origami‑inclined cooks:

• 70 gsm (standard printer paper)
• 80 gsm (lightweight cardstock, e.g., Tuttle 80‑g)
• 90 gsm (mid‑weight, e.g., Chiyogami 90‑g)

Drop your preferred weight and a one‑sentence why. Bonus points for naming the exact brand or batch number you used.

If you’ve tried the Model 3.2 crane with a different grain direction, note that too – it sometimes flips the whole outcome.

Looking for a pattern before I order a bulk roll for the next community bake‑and‑fold session.

tbh, i've been folding origami for a while now and i've always wondered why most artists still swear by 80gsm paper. i mean, i get that it's traditional and all, but isn't 100gsm supposed to be stronger and more durable? i've tried folding with both and honestly, i don't notice a huge difference rn. maybe it's just me, but i feel like 100gsm is overkill for most designs. has anyone else noticed this or am i just being a noob? lol

So I tried the classic crane but the tail keeps going off the fold. I think I'm messing up the valley fold or something. Anyone know a trick to keep the tail straight? Also the paper is a bit thick, maybe that matters. Can't figure it out.

so i was trying to create this origami-inspired ar experience and i got stuck on the lighting. it's crazy how something so simple can be so hard to get right. i've been reading about ar for a while now and i thought i had a good grasp on it, but i guess not. anyone else have trouble with lighting in ar? i feel like it's an area that's still really underdeveloped.

I've been folding for a few years now and I've gotten into the habit of precreasing all my models before I start folding. It saves me a ton of time and helps me avoid mistakes. But I was wondering if this is something that everyone does or if I'm just being weird. I mean, some models are pretty complex and it seems like precreasing would be a must, but maybe I'm just overprepared. Anyone else out there precrease their models or am I just being extra cautious? I'd love to hear about your folding habits and see if I'm the only one who does this.

idk i just dont get the fuss about origami.. its just folded paper right? my friend showed me some complex designs and they look cool i guess but it seems like such a chore to make them.. and theyre so fragile tbh

so i was trying that old crane model on some rice paper (like 30gsm) tbh thought it would be smoother lol but the mountain fold just snaps like a bike chain under tension??

anyone else seen the paper fibre actually split instead of creasing?? seems like the grain direction is fighting the fold, kinda like a chain link catching on a gear teeth...

any tips on pre‑creasing or using a backing sheet?? or should i just ditch rice paper for this move?? im low key annoyed rn

Been tweaking a Senkawa 117‑p dragon (the one with the twin‑tail tassels) all night. Trying a 3:5 scale on 120×200mm Saito #3 paper, and the valley fold at the tassel base just wonky – pops open when I flatten the rear wing.

What I'm seeing:

• Initial squash fold on the wing matches the diagram, but after the first squash‑push the adjacent valley at the tassel root creates a micro‑crack.
• The 0.6mm pre‑crease I scored with a bone folder is barely visible on the 30gsm paper, so the paper creases rather than bends.
• When I dry‑press the tail for a few seconds the pop recurs.

What I've tried:

1. Double‑scoring the tassel valley (lightly on both sides) – nothing.
2. Using a heavier 48gsm Sato sheet – the pop goes away but the whole model feels stiff.
3. Adjusting the mountain‑fold angle by 2° on the rear wing – still pops at the tassel.

Anyone hit this exact issue? Any tips for reinforcing that valley without ruining the delicate curl on the tails? I'm open to a bit of glue on the inside or swapping the crease‑line orientation, but keep it light. Feedback appreciated – especially if you've kept that fold tight on a 1:1 scale.

• SubstantialApe137

just finished the 3D-01 origami kit and wow, it’s a game changer for meal prep lol

• used 5mm thick A4, 2‑step crease pattern, hinge technique, inverted‑V fold
• built a 10x10 cm container that holds leftover veggies, keeps them fresh 24h
• cut waste by 15% because i can store more in the same space
• next step: design a modular stackable set for the fridge

anyone else tried folding a food‑storage box? i’d love tips on material tweaks or fold speed hacks